India's Ministry of Textiles is expanding production into Chhattisgarh, Kerala, and Jharkhand via the PLI scheme's third phase. Sourcing teams should audit infrastructure and compliance readiness before committing volume to these new clusters.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute legal, compliance, or sourcing advice. Verify certification and regulatory requirements with the relevant standards body or counsel.
Editorial note: Reported by The Sourcing Desk editorial team. We cross-reference claims against standards-body publications, regulatory filings, and primary sourcing data. Published 2026-06-27.
India's Ministry of Textiles announced in June 2026 that it plans to extend textile and apparel manufacturing into states including Chhattisgarh, Kerala, and Jharkhand, using the third phase of the Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme — which covers Man-Made Fibre (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles — as the primary investment vehicle. The move is a direct policy response to capacity constraints and recurring disruptions at India's four dominant clusters: Tirupur (Tamil Nadu), Surat (Gujarat), Panipat (Haryana), and Ludhiana (Punjab).
The announcement matters because India's government has set an explicit target to grow the country's share of global textile exports, and the Ministry has established a dedicated unit within the PLI framework to co-ordinate with state governments and private investors on project implementation. Telangana, Odisha, and Madhya Pradesh have already attracted significant national and international investment in garment manufacturing, and the Ministry is now signalling that the next wave of capacity will move further into states with lower industrial bases.
What changed
Textile cluster diversification is not new in India, but the PLI scheme's third phase gives it a formal funding and co-ordination structure that earlier state-level incentive programmes lacked. The PLI scheme, administered centrally by the Ministry of Textiles, offers production-linked financial incentives to manufacturers who meet defined output and investment thresholds. By attaching the new-state push to this mechanism, the Ministry is creating a financial pull for manufacturers to set up in Chhattisgarh, Kerala, and Jharkhand rather than simply expanding in Tirupur or Surat.
The underlying pressure on established hubs is real. Tirupur, which accounts for a large share of India's knitwear exports, has faced seasonal labour migration, water stress, and infrastructure saturation. Surat's synthetic textile complex has dealt with similar congestion. Panipat's recycled-fibre sector has faced scrutiny over wastewater management. These are not short-term problems, and the Ministry's pivot reflects an acknowledgement that concentrating capacity in a handful of cities carries supply-chain risk.
States like Telangana and Odisha have already demonstrated that newer clusters can attract investment: Telangana's garment parks have drawn both domestic manufacturers and international sourcing interest, while Odisha has positioned itself around technical textiles and fibre production. The newer states named in the June 2026 announcement — Chhattisgarh, Kerala, Jharkhand — are at an earlier stage. Kerala has a skilled labour pool and an established coir and handloom sector but limited large-scale apparel manufacturing infrastructure. Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand are primarily mineral and heavy-industry states; their textile sectors are nascent.
What this means for sourcing teams
Sourcing managers should treat this announcement as an early-signal event, not an actionable supplier list. The practical steps are about preparation and monitoring, not immediate order placement.
Map the PLI pipeline. The Ministry's dedicated PLI unit is the primary source of project-level data. Sourcing teams or their agents should track which manufacturers apply for PLI incentives in the new states, since PLI applicants must disclose investment plans and production targets. This creates a visible pipeline of future capacity that is more reliable than anecdotal reports.
Audit infrastructure before committing volume. Unlike Tirupur or Surat, where power, water, logistics, and ancillary services (trims, testing labs, freight forwarders) are mature, the new clusters will take time to build equivalent support systems. Before placing trial orders, buyers should verify: reliable power supply (critical for MMF weaving and dyeing), effluent treatment plant (ETP) availability or compliance with India's Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) discharge norms, and road or rail connectivity to major ports (JNPT, Chennai, Mundra).
Check certification readiness. Suppliers in established hubs often hold certifications such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, or Fair Trade Certified status, built up over years of buyer pressure. Manufacturers setting up in Chhattisgarh or Jharkhand are unlikely to hold these on day one. If your programme requires certified inputs, build a 12-to-18-month certification runway into any new-cluster development plan. GOTS certification, for example, requires a full production cycle audit before a certificate is issued.
Assess labour compliance from the start. India's labour law framework applies nationally, but enforcement intensity varies by state. Sourcing teams should require new suppliers in these states to undergo a social compliance audit (SA8000, SMETA 2-Pillar, or equivalent) before first shipment, rather than waiting for the supplier to mature. The EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), which entered force in 2024 and applies to large EU-market brands, requires supply-chain due diligence that covers new and existing suppliers equally.
Compare across emerging clusters, not just within them. Brands evaluating new Indian capacity should benchmark Chhattisgarh, Kerala, and Jharkhand against the already-active second-tier clusters: Telangana (garments, technical textiles), Odisha (fibre, technical textiles), and Madhya Pradesh (cotton yarn, home textiles). Manufacturers active in those states, such as Shahi Exports (which operates facilities across multiple Indian states), Eastman Exports (Tamil Nadu, with documented HR due-diligence work), and Indo Count Industries (Maharashtra, home textiles), provide reference points for what compliance and production maturity looks like at different stages of cluster development.
Factor in cost trajectory. Industry representatives cited by Apparel Resources note that initial production costs in new clusters will be higher than in Tirupur or Surat, because support ecosystems are not yet in place. Sourcing managers should model a cost premium for the first two to three years and build that into any business case for diversification.
Limitations and open questions
The Ministry of Textiles has not published a project list, investment quantum, or timeline for the new-state expansion as of the date of this article. The PLI scheme's third phase has been referenced in policy communications, but detailed operational guidelines, eligibility criteria, and incentive rates for the new states have not been made public. Sourcing teams should not assume that PLI-backed capacity will be operational within a standard 12-month sourcing cycle.
It is also unclear how the Ministry plans to address the skilled-worker gap in states like Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand, where apparel-sector training infrastructure is thin. Earlier PLI phases targeted MMF and technical textiles specifically, and it is not confirmed whether the third phase extends incentives to cotton apparel or broadens the product scope.
The compliance picture for new clusters is similarly unresolved. India's Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) and the CPCB set national floors, but state-level environmental and labour enforcement records in Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand have not been independently benchmarked against textile-sector requirements. Buyers operating under the CSDDD or the UK Modern Slavery Act should not assume that national-level compliance frameworks translate automatically into supplier-level readiness in greenfield locations.
Finally, the relationship between this diversification push and India's broader free-trade agreement (FTA) negotiations — including the India-EU FTA, which remains under negotiation — has not been spelled out. If preferential tariff access to the EU is eventually secured, the economics of new-cluster investment will shift, but that outcome is not guaranteed or imminent.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute legal, compliance, or sourcing advice. Verify certification and regulatory requirements with the relevant standards body or counsel.
Sources
- India Plans to Expand Textile Manufacturing Beyond Tirupur and Surat
- PLI Scheme for Textiles – Ministry of Textiles, Government of India
- GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard: Certification Process
- EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) – European Commission
- Tirupur Rewires Its Growth Playbook Amid Global Uncertainty
- Eastman Exports Partners with Yugma Due Diligence to Strengthen HR Practices
